you know that you are in a town obsessed by surfing when the first, third and last pages of the morning newspaper are dominated by surf stories. [should or should not the rip curl pro tour be held at lennox head near byron bay]. and every second store is a surfwear/surf accessories store [my dream shopping experience].
and since my private surfing lesson this morning i have also become obsessed with surfing. or more obsessed than I currently have been. my instructor ainslie pointed out the important flaw in my stand up technique and since then I have been ‘owning the break’. well in my own mind I have been anyway [i actually havent].
it’s been good to take a break from the library, but i couldnt help but drop by the local library here to check out the scene. part of my informaton gathering mission for when I am ready for my own white sand sea change, which wont come soon enough.